004 Sandflies and ghost towns

 January 28, 2021

If there is one other thing that Mike loathes more than Brussel sprouts, walnuts and mosquitoes, its sandflies and this morning we hit the motherlode. They LOVE his pale skin which is not funny for him but hilarious for me to watch his antics. We found them at Lyell, the site of an old goldmining town in the Buller Gorge, a damp dark place where the Old Ghost Road (a tramping/cycling path) has been recreated. We had a very quick look around then retreated to the van for coffee. To get to Lyell we drove along the excellent Upper Buller Road which is tightly surrounded by native bush most of the way.

After dealing with the sandflies (spraying and a great deal of slapping) we drove on to Reefton. Some of my father's family were goldmining in the area 150 years ago. The temperature has dropped almost 20 degrees from yesterday, the wind a brisk south-westerly. Its a strange wee town, Reefton, obviously used to many tourists and geared up for them with cafes etc., but also very old NZ in many ways; a strange juxtaposition of ancient and modern.

My interest was very much on Boatman's Creek way out in the "wops" and the tiny town of Capleston on its bank where one of my grandmothers was born on the 3rd of October 1895. Fifty-seven years later to the day, I was born and I take my second name (Margaret) from her.

The last time I went to Capleston was in 1991 and at that time we were able to drive along a narrow gravel road off Boatman's for 4kms to a place where I could walk into the almost completely derelict town site. This time we couldn't because the road was simply unsuitable for the motorhome. Very sad. I love the countryside around there with its wide white swathes of shingle along the Buller River, toe toe (pronounced toy toy) and wildflowers on the roadsides, high hills with long flat valleys and the railway dominating. Great place names too: Larry's Creek (who was Larry? I need to know) where my gr-gr grandparents were married; Dead Dog Creek (got to be a good story there); and Perseverance Road. Tonight we are at NZMCA Westport right on the sea.

Boatman's Creek Bridge

Boatman's Creek - Capleston is around the corner to the right

Historic Capleston

Capleston is in the closest valley

Reefton - old goldminer's hut

Sandfly heaven

The Old Ghost Road


Comments

  1. Anita17 March 2021 at 01:44

    How wonderful to be able to retrace so many steps already left made by your ancestors. I'm sure they walked along side you on this day. 🙏

    ReplyDelete

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