010 Jackson Bay and the Haast Pass to Wanaka

 Monday, February 8

As far south-west, as the road goes, lies the sleepy little fishing village of Jackson Bay. It faces the Tasman Sea to the north and is backed by the majestic Southern Alps. We were inspired to go there by a fellow motorhomer who told us he'd eaten the best meal of blue cod in his life there. So we followed a mostly straight road enjoying a mix of scrubby farmland, trees and bush (creating a very English country lane canopy over us), and wind-damaged, dead and dying wood stuck and prickled and spiked with the standing black and grey splinters strewn all over its hollows and hills. (Blanche Baughn, from A Bush Section)

After 32kms we reached the Cray Pot cafe, about the size of a shipping container where, somehow, customers piled in one end and the owner cooked at the other. The blue cod lived up to it's reputation, the drinks were hot, and and the helping of chips so generous we could not finish them. We went for a walk along the wharf where once stood a whaling station. People are still fishing there and friendly Ministry of Fishing representatives were on fairly relaxed watch for illegal catches.

Mike had driven out, so I drove back to Haast to get diesel, then Mike took over again to take us through the Haast Pass. Its a road of all sorts: flat farmland; stacked hay bales in their plastic wrap; mountains left, front and then surrounding us; black-faced sheep; giant flax; variegated bushland; decaying barns and old houses; once bright gorse, sprayed and fading to a soft brown with crimson touches; busy beehives; superb native bush; creeks and culverts with names such as Roaring Swine, Boggy, Chink, Crikey, Square Top, Imp Grotto, Gout, and Thunder Creek (to name but a very few).

Passing through the Gates of Haast, we wound up through the mountain pass, stopping only for a cuppa at Fantail Falls. The sky which had previously been overcast and glowering over the mountains began to lighten as we began to see signs of civilization once again. It is difficult to express the total beauty of Lake Hawea, Lake Wanaka and their surrounds. I could compare them to the lochs of Scotland or perhaps the hills and valleys of Wales, but even that wouldn't be doing them justice.

And so, very tiredly (it had been a long day) we found a campground near the centre of Wanaka. That shower tonight was oh....delicious!

Jackson Bay location

Jackson Bay

Wharf at Jackson Bay

The Craypot

Mike, waiting for blue cod & chips

Jackson Bay and back to Haast

Road into the Haast Pass

Fantail Falls - Haast Pass

Road into Wanaka past Lake Hawea and Lake Wanaka

Lake Hawea

Lake Wanaka

Wanaka Top 10 Campground


Comments

  1. Your descriptive narrative and accompanying photos make this trip come alive even from where I sit. And that's pretty far removed from where you are. Awesome. Keep on keeping on. Happy travels.

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